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Out of these 3 carpet construction processes the following basic styles of carpet are created.

Looped
Formed by combining uncut loops of carpet. Yarn is locked in by the backing and only the sides of the yarn endure wear and stress.

Commercial

Berber

Usage: long lasting carpet for high traffic areas. Large styling options available

Cut Pile
Tips of loops are cut off level looped carpet.

Cut Pile Saxony

Has an even pile height. Construction not as dense as a velvet.

Usage: Available at all levels of the durability spectrum.
Styling: Generally used as a room tie-in.

Velvet Saxony

Tight, densely constructed cut pile with very high twist to the yarn for a more luxurious velour like appearance.

Usage: Available at all levels of the durability spectrum.

Styling: Considered the apex of understated elegance. Usually made with low lustre face fiber.

Textured Saxony

Uneven surface formed by combining straight tufts with curled tufts of different pile heights. The uneven surface can be formed by using all cut pile, all looped pile, or a combination of the two. Shows less footprints and shading.

Usage: See Cut Pile Saxony

Styling: A less formal application of solid color.

Cut and Loop
Combination of groups of looped pile and cut pile used to create a distinctive pattern.

Usage: Available at all levels of the durability spectrum.

Styling: Typically for areas where camouflaging soil and stains is the main consideration.

Pattern

Woven

Cut Pile

Printed

Usage: From bold to refined, patterns help to define a space.

FULL DISCLOSURE

Twist

Twist indicates the number of times the plys of yarn have been twisted together in a one inch length. Twist is important because it dramatically effects the finished look of the surface pile. It is one of the main reasons in determining the length of time a surface pile will retain it's original finish and it's ability to resist crushing and matting. It also greatly effects the cost of manufacturing. Higher twist is better.

Face Weight

The number of ounces used in the composition of the FACE of a carpet per square yard. More ounces per square yard is betteer.

Gauge

In tufted carpet guage means the number of ends of surface yarn per inch counting across the width of the carpet e.g. 1/8th gauge is read eight needles per inch, 5/32nds is read 32 needles per every five inches. Gauge is important becuase it is the single largest determining factor in a carpets looks. For example the higher the gauge (more needles) the lower the surface pile profile. Gauge is one of the factors in determining the density and greatly impacts the appearance retention rating. It is also a major factor in the cost of manufacturing. The more needles the slower a tufting machine runs and so greater labor, electric, etc. costs are accrued.

Stitches per inch

Number of yarn ends (tufts) per running inch of a single row along the length of the carpet. The opposite side of the coin from gauge.

Density

The weight of pile yarn in a unit of volume of carpet. This measurement is a combination of Gauge, Stitches per Inch, Face Weight and Pile Height. It determines the cubic volume amount in a square inch of carpet. Density is one measurement used to help rate a carpets potential appearance retention and it's ability to resist crushing and matting. Higher density is better.

Fiber

The type of yarn used in the construction of the FACE of the carpet.

Wool A natural fiber produced by sheep. Strengths are durability, soil resistance, soft hand.

Polyester A petroleum derivative. Strengths are color clarity, soil resistance, soft feel and hand.

Polypropylene A petroleum derivative. Strenghts are stain resistance, resists fading.

Nylon A petroleum derivative. Strengths are durability, soil and stain resistance, color variety.

Acrylic A petroleum derivative. Strengths are soft hand, like wool, and soil resistance.

Tuft Bind

Denotes the relative strength of the attachment of the yarn loops to the primary backing. Insures that a carpet resists snags and pulls. Higher tuft bind is better.

Durability

Denotes the carpet's ability to retain it's like new appearance over a period of time, assuming proper care and maintenance. Higher durability is better.

Wear

Denotes the face fibers ability to resist abrasion. This particular word is the most misunderstood term in the carpet industry. Wear does not mean durability.

AREA RUGS
An area rug denotes fabric with set sizes and finished edges. Area rugs come in a wide array of construction, styles and fiber types.
Choosing an area rug can be equally as challenging as choosing a piece of fine art. We recommmend visiting an Olson Rug location nearest you to see hundreds of rugs on display in the latest styles, and the lowest prices in Chicagoland. Our knowledgeable salespeople will help you find a rug that fits your style and your budget.

The materials and construction for creating fine area rugs can be very complex. In the next few paragraphs we've provide you with some information which should make your selection of a rug easier.

Rugs can be put into three categories:

1. Machine made
2. Hand-made
3. Hand-knotted

Machine made

Hand-made or Hand-tufted
Although these rugs have the look and feel of hand-knotted rugs, they differ in construction methods. Instead of tyeing each knot by hand the rug is made with a tufting gun from the back of the rug. This method saves time and keeps the price of the rug much lower than that of a hand-knotted rug of equal size.

Hand-knotted
The purchase of a fine hand-knotted rug is an investment. It is the end result of the artistic talents of the shepherd, designer, dyemaker, weaver and carver. Each of whom plays an important role in the rugs final construction, which could take many months.

Materials
Only the finest materials will be used in a rugs construction.

Wool
The selection of quality wool is critical. It is the best material for the rug's pile. It will determine the rug's texture, softness, durability, color and clarity. Wool comes in different grades and types and is a major cost factor. The right wool must be selected for each rug. Only special breeds of sheep are used and they are raised using a special diet, proper climate and altitiude. Their age and time of year shearing occurs are also important factors. Only the best section of a sheeps wool is used in construction.
Some tribes actually cover their sheep with sheets to keep the wool from getting dirty. Wool can be hand or machine spun. Both types will produce good wool.

Cotton
Although wool is the best material for a rug's pile it is not the best choice for it's backing (foundation). A rug with a wool backing would not lye flat, would be crooked and can be recognized by a darker and thicker fringe than a cotton fringe. A rug with a cotton backing will keep its shape, lye flat and will shrink evenly. Cotton is stronger, thicker and stretches less.

Dyes
There has been considerable changes in dyes over the last century. Natural dyes, although limited in use today, were the common method used for coloring rugs until the 1900's. Master dyemakers had jelously guarded formulas that were passed down from father to son and he was given as much respect as a weaver in his village. The dyes were made from things found in nature such as flowers, berries, bark, insects and occasionally minerals. These items would be gathered from areas they visited with their flocks and from around their villages. The dyemakers would take great patience and care to extract the pigments from these items. Natural dyes, although painstakingly handcrafted, had their limitations. If not applied properly they would be inconsistent, dull and could harm the wool.
Although most dyes will fade over time a rug made with natural dyes is said to achieve different stages with age. It will loose some of its sharp brassy color of youth and achieve a rich soft color with middle age. Some of these rugs can be a hundred years old or more. Their colors, once brilliant shades of reds and greens, will ultimately fade and will become muted shades of blues and browns. These rugs are prized by collectors who pay high prices for them.

Analine
An acid dye which was developed in the mid 1800's. This dye is used very little today, except on poor grades of wool and on low quality rugs. While they continue in use today on synthetic rugs, they would strip essential oils from the wool making it brittle. It was a harsh, low cost corrosive dye that caused premature wearing of the wool and caused the colors to become cloudy and fade. This ultimately resulted in ruining many fine rugs.

Chrome
A synthetic dye developed in the 1920's and 30's. These dyes don't harm the wool. They resist acids. alkalis washing and fading. There are hundreds of colors to choose from that don't run or streak. They offer the rug designer a larger variety of shades and colors than natural dyes. They are more expensive but are the solution to natural dyes limitations.

Construction of a Hand-knotted rug
A hand-knotted rug is composed of thousands of individual knots. The three most common types are the Turkish knot, the Persian knot and the Mouri knot. The Mouri knot is actually more of a loop than a knot and can be tied much faster than the other two. It produces an almost smooth feeling on the back of the rug, while rugs tied with the Persian or Turkish knot will produce the feeling of rows or knots on the back of the rug. The Turkish knot is easy to identify because it looks like and upside down T.
A good weaver can tie around 6400 knots per day. A 9x12 rug with 300 knots per inch, can easily have over 4 million knots and take over 12 man years to create. The more knots tied per square inch the finer the detail and the more labor is required for production. The weaving begins by securing the top and bottom of the rug to a loom. After each knot is tied it is cut with a sharp knife. When each row of knots is complete, the knots are hammered down wth a heavy hammer that has a comb attached to it. This gives the rug it's tightness. After the weaving is finished the rug is taken down from the loom. The edges are bound with yarn for reinforcement and the top and bottom edges are braided to form the rug's fringe. The rug is then washed to eliminate dust and dirt. The tops of the knots are then sheared with a knife. This is done to cut the surface pile to the same level. On certain rug's, motifs are accented by carving or incising. It is only after the rug is sheared that the pattern becomes visable. A single mistake in shearing can destroy years of work. The rug is now complete and ready for shipment.

1. Solids

As the name implies this is a solid stip of wood generally 3/4 of an inch through its thickness. These boards must be nailed down and can be refinished. Can be installed On or Above grade.
2. Engineered

Similar in construction to plywood these floors are constructed using 3 to 5 layers of wood consisting of a backing, core and face locked together to improve dimensional stability. The backing and face are normally made of the same or similar species of wood. These floors are usually glued down and most can be refinished 1 to 3 times. Can be installed On, Above or Below grade.
3. Acrylic Impregnated

Commonly seen in Engineered floors, acrylic is pressurized into the pores of the wood until they are completely saturated. The wood loses its wood properties and reacts like plastic. The resulting wood floor product has increased density, hardness and wear resistance as well as coloration inserted uniformly throuhgout the thickness of the wood. Acrylic impregnated wood never needs to be resanded. It can be installed naildown or gluedown.

On, Above or Below grade?
The term grade refers to ground level. Solid wood floors can only be installed On or Above Grade. This is because Below grade levels inherently hold more moisture, which would cause excess expansion in the solid wood floor.
Engineered floors, because of their construction, can be installed at any level.

Strips, Planks and Parquets
Strips and Planks refer to the surface widths of the individual boards. Any board 2 1/4" or less is called "Strip" and anything over 3" is called "Plank".
Strips can be found in widths of 1 1/2", 2" and 2 1/4"
Planks are commonly constructed in 3" to 8" widths. Both types are tongued and grooved and designed for nail down installation. By varying the widths one can create a custom look.

Parquet
On a custom floor parquet refers to small pieces of wood which when put together form a specific pattern. Parquet squares are basically tiles consisting of three to four square "tiles" fastened together with paper or webbing.

Styles and Finishes
Two types of edges are used in the construction of wood floors.

1. Beveled

The eased edge of strip, plank, and parquet flooring at approximately a 45 degree angle. Prefinished wood flooring is commonly available with this edge. It is usually optional on unfinished products.
This technique is also used by manufacturers to hide the possible height difference between one piece of wood and another. Although this difference is rarely more than the thickness of a hair it would be very noticeable on a prefinished floor.
When a floor is sanded on the job the sanding process removes the slight overwood or underwood. Beveling is good for the wood because the grit and abrasives can find a home in the grooves so the finish is not marred.

2. Squared

Tongued and grooved strip, plank and parquet flooring with edges that are not eased or beveled. Primarily found on unfinished wood, when installed, these finely milled edges form a smooth surface.

Prefinished vs. Unfinished(Custom Finished)
Prefinished On a pre-finished wood floor the wood is stained and finished before the merchandise gets to the installation site. A prefinished floor is usually superior to an unfinished floor for the following reasons.

1. The boards are individually finished in a dustless environment eliminating the airborne particles which cause air bubbles and a ragged finish.


2. The finish is more consistently applied and appears more even. Several layers of finish protect the wood far better than the 2 finishes used during unfinished installation.


3. Convenience

If the time available from start to finish of the wood installation is a prime consideration, the selection of a prefinished wood product makes the most sense. Once out of the box, it is installed, cleaned and ready to go.
All things considered, pre-finished flooring is less costly and much more convenient. The disadvantages are that with a pre-finished floor you must select from the factory colors that are available.
Sometimes there may be a slight over or underwood if a squared pre-finished floor is installed since the floor is already sanded and finished. This problem can easily be corrected on an unfinished floor by sanding.
This problem can be eliminated by installing a beveled edged floor.

Unfinished and Custom Finished
Custom finishing of wood floors is performed in the home on the completely installed new wood floor or to refurbish a previously finished floor. The advantages that custom finishing permits is that the home owner can select from a full range of color, surface types from shine to sheen and is not restricted to factory selected basic colors. Any over or underwood can be easily corrected before the finish is applied. There are a few disadvantages however. The customer has to leave the house and depending on what type of finish is used the fumes can be disagreeable. The inconvenience factor may become high especially if the customer has limited time available. Only two coats of finish are applied compared with several that are applied on engineered wood.
These factors along with the additional labor and material for on the job finishing normally make an unfinished floor more expensive than that of a prefinished wood floors.
At this time Olson Rug Co. does not offer custom finishing or re-finishing services. However, employing the expertise of an experienced "sand and finish" person is the most important aspect. We recommend that the homeowner get at least 2 to 3 estimates from reputable companies before starting this type of work.

Surface Finishes
The type of finish that will best suit the customer and the particular installation can be determined by several factors. The area in the home it will be used, traffic, exposure to water and or chemicals, and maintenance. Olson Rug Co's expertise will help you make the proper decision and help you to determine just what is possible and what is not.

High Shine vs. Satin
The selection of the right finish should be done with care and depending on how much maintenance the homeowner is willing to do, should be one of the most important factors. High gloss floors show scuffs, scratches and dirt more easily than the softer look of a satin low luster floor. A high shine may cause excessive care and eventually dissatisfaction with the wood floor.
A satin finish presents the wood in its more natural state, while a high gloss surface may hide the natural character and color of the wood.

Penetrating Sealer/Wax and Surface Finishes
A penetrating sealer soaks down into the wood, seals the pores against soiling and permits the wood to take the wear rather than the finish. With proper maintenance a penetrating finish may last the life of the floor without refinishing and accentuates the beauty of the wood. This finish can easily be maintained by the homeowner and can usually be refinished without sanding by cleaning and reconditioning. It requires a regular maintenance program of buffing and waxing, shows water spots and may be easily stained and scratched.
Wax is a good example of a penetrating type of finish. Wax, while easy to maintain, will watermark and scratch easier than polyurethane and should not be used in areas of extreme traffic or when moisture is apt to contact the floor (e.g. kitchens and bathrooms).

Surface finishes
True to their name these finishes lay on the surface of the floor. The finish rather than the wood, takes all the wear, spills and splashes.
Here are a few of the finishes in use today.

Polyurethane
These are blends of synthetic resins plasticizers and other film forming agents that produce an extremely durable finish that is moisture and stain resistant. Some poly's require regular waxing while some do not and all will yellow or darken with age and can be cleaned with a damp dry mop. Polyurethanes have an objectionable odor while being applied and may require hiring a professional. Most finishes today are polyurethane.

Swedish Finishes
A combination of urea-formeldehyde resins with a butylacohol solvent. Unlike polyurethane which sits on the surface of the floor this finish bonds to the wood itself, avoiding the sometimes undesirable "plastic look" of polyurethane. This finish is long wearing, easy to maintain is water and chemical resistant and requires no wax.
This finish requires a professional application, is expensive and has a highly objectionable odor.

Waterborne Urethane
This finish gives the homeowner most of the advantages of the polyurethanes and the swedish type finishes without the disadvantages. They are abrasive, water and chemical resistant. Do not require wax and are easily repaired. Easily applied, (can be applied by a non professional) it has a very mild odor, fast drying and curing time and cleans up with water rather than solvents. Provides a clear finish that cannot yellow with age. Waterborne urethanes are applied in thin coats and when used as a natural finish over wood that has not been sealed, the waterborne will raise the grain.

Trim Pieces: Baseboard, Quarter Round, Shoe, Threshhold
After the wood floor has been installed it will need some type of wall trim. These pieces not only finish the floor but cover expansion spaces which allow the floor to move freely underneath. On solid boards, base and shoe/quarter round must be used. Only shoe/quarter round is necessary on engineered wood.